Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Photographing Zermatt


I have been reluctant in writing about Zermatt. Despite the fact that I have been to Zermatt twice, I don't think I have experienced it well enough yet to give all the best tips.

Trip 1 -

I left Lausanne on a Tuesday morning with the first rays of sunshine. The sky looked promising and I was really excited about the prospect of seeing Switzerland best known mountain, the Matterhorn with some great light. When I arrived in Visp for a train connection, it had started to rain. On the train ascend to Zermatt the rain turned into flurries and the higher up we went, the more intense the snow storm became.
When I arrived in Zermatt, the visibility was close to zero. I had a really hard time to orienting myself since I could barely see the other side of the street to try to find my hotel. The snow continued in spite of the temperature of 5 degrees Celsius. I waited for a couple of hours and the visibility improved a little. However, there was no chance at all of seeing the Matterhorn this time. Since I am not one of giving up, I decided to go out to capture at least the trail up to the peak. The snow and high temperature combination had transformed the trail into a thick icy muddy puddle. With wet feet and a slippery walk, I decided to turn my lenses to the traditional Swiss Chalets (not the saucy Canadian type!) around the area.

Image 1 - Traditional Swiss Chalet on a snowy day
Image 2 - Trail from Tasch to Zermatt 
 A traditional Alpine chalet was built elevated from the ground with wooden walls and the roofs of a local stone called 'Lauze', which is similar to slate but thicker. The stones were used mainly due to the shortage of wood and for its insulation capability. In addition, the stones are resistant to fire and have longevity.

In the southern village of Tasch, the last drivable place before Zermatt, which is accessed by train only, there is trail that take you up to Zermatt if you prefer instead of the train ride. In this trail there are many abandoned traditional chalets. What it is interesting to notice is that the same chalet style and from the same construction period that are located in Zermatt are still in use! Even with the wholes in the wooden walls and the gaps on the doors and windows. Zermatt is a small touristic village with high real state prices.


Image 3 - Abandoned chalet
 
Image 4 - train from Tasch to Zermatt
Trip 2 –


A week later and with my fingers crossed for better weather, I have made my way back up the mountains to Zermatt in the quest of Matterhorn. I took the train all the way from Visp. If you do the same as me, make sure to sit at the very last car on the left side of the train. On the ride, you will be able to register nice views of the Alps including or not the train. The speed is low enough that a hand-help picture will not be shaky. In addition, the windows of the trains open allowing a reflex free picture.


Image 5 - Train ride from Visp to Zermatt

When you arrive at the Zermatt village, last stop of the train, you should exit the train station and turn right or simply follow the huddle of skiers. Don’t expect to see Matterhorn just yet, but in a couple of minutes you will see the triangular peak, which is said to have inspired the Toblerone chocolate.

From the village, the best view of Matterhorn is from the bridge right in front of Matterhorn Hostel. It is an unobtrusive view that can be enhanced by incorporating some of the village’s chalets and the creek. During the high season, you might have to wait in line to take a picture or have your picture taken in this location. 





Image 6 - Matterhornview from Zermatt village


If you don’t want to walk, you can get one of the taxis that circulate on the village. All vehicles are left behind in Tasch. In Zermatt only the mini electric cars are permitted, even for emergency cars. Some hotels also offer more traditional shuttle services, on horse and carriage.


Image 7 - Mini electric cars


Image 8 - Hotel alternative shuttle


From the end of Zermatt’s village, there are two ways to get closer to Matterhorn: a cable car to Furi and Schwarzsee or a hiking trail up hill. If you have read my previous post, you should know by now that I am scared of cable cars. The Matterhorn seemed so close to the village that I have decided to follow the trail. After 45 minutes and lots of unnecessary sweat I gave up. The sky indicated that it would not be a beautiful sunset and I would have to climb down the trail by myself on the dark afterwards.


Image 9 - Cable car 


Image 10 - On my way up on the Matterhorn hiking trail

Instead I have settled for a location off the main Matterhorn trail, where there are various Swiss chalets. The trail does not have many nice views of the mountain, at least not the 45 minutes that I have gone. So, I climbed down almost all the way back to the village where I could integrate other elements on the foreground, or isolate the Matterhorn with my zoom lenses.

Image 11 - Matterhorn in the background with traditional Swiss chalets in the foreground 
Image 12 - Matterhorn in the background with traditional Swiss chalet in the foreground


When I stop at a location, I make sure to look 360 degrees, to see what else is around. From this location, I also had a very nice view of the Zermatt village in the back and a few of the solitary chalets on the high hills. In addition, the Glacier Express train passes by on the opposite side of the mountain. It was hard to resist registering the moment that the train made its way up slowly through the bridge balanced against the Alps.
Image 13 - Zermatt village
Image 14 - Isolated Chalets
Image 15 - Glacier Express train
At last, it was time for Sunset, but as predicted it was cloudless and the position of the sun at this time of the year did not illuminate the Matterhorn the way I had imagined, I was a little disappointed but it seems to be turning into a tradition… Zermatt and the Matterhorn have made to my list of places to return. I will even venture myself on the cable car… maybe if I get some company I will be a little bit braver. Third time is the charm…


Image 16 - Matterhorn at dusk

Image 17 - Matterhorn at sunset

2 comments:

  1. Considering the subject matter being so tough to capture you have done an excellent job

    ReplyDelete
  2. Oh...and for the record...this place does not say,
    'Come and visit me while you're here';)

    ReplyDelete